SUWANNEERIVER
WILDERNESS TRAIL

April 13-21, 2006

Joel Kaiser planned this kayak trip and for a time wondered if it would actually take place. Yes indeed, it would! Five Tropical Trekkers (Joel Kaiser, Barbara Schmucker, Ellie Bauer and Merle and Cynthia Townsend), two FTA members from other chapters (Barbara Quinn, aka Nails on the AT, and Susan Turner, aka Hammock Hanger on the AT), and Tony Uhl, a young man working at the Savannas State Park Preserve with Americorp made up a fantastic group to take this trip. Joining us for this trip was FLAT STANLEY.

The book, Flat Stanley, written by Jeff Brown, is a story about Stanley Lambchop who has an unfortunate incident with a bulletin board. As a result he becomes FLAT. Good News, however. His parents can put him in an envelope and send him to relatives and friends who take Stanley on adventures. (Ellie's Flat Stanleys have been to Scotland twice and now on the Suwannee River Wilderness Trail. He is soon to go to Alaska as he expressed an interest in seeing a grizzly bear.)

Six of us, make that seven if you count FS, traveled from the Stuart area to White Springs, Florida to spend overnight at the Historic Telford Hotel. Barbara Quinn met us there mid-afternoon; Sue joined us the following morning just as we were leaving to go to the American Canoe Outfitters who would transport us to Fargo, Georgia for the start of our trip.

Joel had told us that this was backpacking in a kayak, so take a little extra as there was more room in the kayaks than in a backpack. We took him at his word and did bring a few more items "necessary" for our trip. After packing up our gear (stuffing it into every nook and cranny) we pushed off into the beautiful Suwannee. (This is where you must begin to sing Way Down Upon the SuwanneeRiver.... Unfortunately these are the few words we know.)

The river is just beautiful, Tupolo trees with strange, sometimes grotesque, but artistically sculpted formations, graced the sides and middle of the water. Cypress trees hung with Spanish moss give the river an Old South identity. The river current is about two and a half mph as the flow snakes along. We paddled at a mostly casual pace stopping to stretch out on sandy beaches almost every two hours.

The first day we Traveled The River plus or minus 17 miles and found a shady place to camp on a rise above a sandy beach that had a sand bar that could be used for bathing. Not yet used to paddling so far, we were all pretty tired and yet exhilarated as well. Merle made a fire pit and we enjoyed sitting around the blaze fighting off mosquitoes with shared deet spray.

Day two we paddled another 17 miles to a beautiful beach with shade trees, and across the river from what appeared to be a very small waterfall. We were hot. Swimming was in store. Now, I am a bit afraid of alligators finding me a tasty treat, but with a little coaxing and a supporting hand from Sue, even I went into the river to cool off. This is a good way to rinse out sweaty clothing and keep cool at the same time. Later, Barbara S., Barbara Q., Sue and I took a walk. It seems civilization is nearly always close-by, even if in a rural setting. As if a surprise, this realization comes every time I think I am out in a wild area. Later, we sat around the fire listening to owls hoot, a sound that would penetrate the night. Merle and Cynthia had set their tent beneath the owl tree, so they had a close encounter with the serenade.

An early am departure found the Suwannee with mist hovering over it until the sun came out from behind clouds. Tony, as well as Merle and Cynthia would leave us this day at White Springs. But before arriving at their designated take out we would pass Big Shoals where it is strongly suggested we portage. We arrived at Big Shoals near lunch time. Timing IS everything. Lunch over, Tony, Sue and Barbara were to float the shoals. The river was down; scattered throughout, were rocks the size of boulders. Getting hung up on one of these could do bodily damage and /or leave you without transportation for the remainder of the trip. After reading the flow, they picked out the right side of the river to use and Success! Yes, there were a few seconds of getting caught on a rock by some of us (flowing backward does not appeal to me) but we were all magnificent.

"Joel and his four ladies" continued on down the river, completing 19 miles this day. Stephen Foster State Folk Culture Center was on our way so out we hopped, climbed the stairs, and to our delight found a spigot from which to refill our water bottles. The Florida Trail follows along the river bank for some miles and crosses through the park right where we were standing. There is a pole erected next to the pavilion indicating the height of the river at flood times. It is difficult to imagine how the river could rise up that far. After a brief rest we continued on our way, stopping to investigate Woods Ferry, a newly completed campground for folks that Travel The River, arrive on feet, or in vehicular transportation.

A turtle was sunning itself on a log in a tangle of wood in the river. I stopped to take its picture and got caught in the current, bumping into the tangle. As I pushed off a "limb" moved suddenly, curving down and nearly landing in my kayak. Splash, was it a water moccasin? It fell into the river. An impending disaster was avoided as I was snuggly fit into a cranny with all my gear.

We camped on a wooded rise above another beach over-looking the river as it curled around the bend. This day there were cabins with people facing us across the way. (Watch out where you dig a cat hole.) A small island at the bend in the river provided a private spot to bathe and Barbara S., by now had earned the name Rub-A-Dub as she was clearly the cleanest of us all, washing out her clothing at each nightly camping spot.
Up early each day, we usually put into the river at 7:30am. This day was the same. We stopped at the Boy Scout Camp; Sue once again submerged herself into the river to cool off. Barbara Q. climbed up and slid down a sand pile resembling snow.

We left this beautiful stop traveling past Suwannee Springs where boys were jumping into the water, finally arriving at Spirit Of The Suwannee Music Park where we would spend the night. An outfitter, Richard, and his dog, Sam, drove us a mile to the park to register and came back the following morning to return us to the river. He told the woman at the registration desk, "These folks are Traveling The River and need a place to stay tonight." There was to be a big event on the weekend and their computers were giving them problems.

We camped in what appeared to be the overflow area, showered (how wonderful) and ate hamburgers and French fries accompanied by ice filled glasses with our favorite beverages for dinner in the restaurant. Nirvana. Up early the next morning we breakfasted on bacon and eggs in the second restaurant. The coffee was nectar. Delicious. Hey, this kind of camping is pretty good.

Repacked, we slid once again into the river and passed limestone cliffs studded with small caves and larger caverns. Reflected in the water the pictures they made were as abstract paintings.
This was to be a short paddle day, only 10 miles. As we pulled around a curve in the river there was a pristine, white sand beach interrupted by a stairway to heaven. We had arrived at Holton Creek River Camp.

There were screened cabins (no walls), equipped with fans, electric lights and plugs. Restrooms with showers, a pavilion and concrete pathways. Selecting three cabins, we quickly brought up our gear and situated ourselves in our chosen spots. There were two men surveying the area and shortly two rangers and another gentleman arrived. It seems the camp was not yet opened, but we could stay. Yippee! One of the rangers then covered the sign and strung yellow tape across the stair entrance so that no one else would come aboard. A refreshing shower, a change of clothing and we were ready to hike the Florida Trail which just happened to be next to the first cabin.

This beautiful section of the FT followed the river showing its fine green tapestry as the light filtered through the tree canopy. There was a small field of Rain Lilly's just begging to have their pictures taken. I, of course, obliged. Joel and Barbara Q. took off leaving us in the dust. Sue decided to return to camp as "something she had eaten" had left her not feeling well. Barbara S. and I continued to follow behind the invisible two, but turned around before catching up to them. Barbara very thoughtfully picked up rubbish that had been strewn on the trailside. We were gabbing away when suddenly she pushed me aside. At the same time I saw why-a four to five foot rattler was sunning itself on the trail. Now we were on opposite sides of the snake. I was trying to get close enough to take a photograph; Barbara was deciding whether to go in front or behind the snake to get on the side nearest the cabins. As she stepped behind it (some four to five feet) it turned itself in her direction. We took off toward the cabins, walking just a bit faster.

After dinner we sat on the beach waiting for the Big Splash. Earlier in the day, something, we could not identify, leaped from the river leaving a dynamic ring of ripples. I thought an alligator, and Joel was convinced it was a sturgeon or a garr. No splashes this night, but tomorrow would be another day.

A good night's sleep, breakfast, and off we went once again. This was to be our final day. We were going to stay at Suwannee River State Park, a short paddle of only ten miles. We stopped briefly where the Alapaha River joined the Suwannee. Fish were jumping and two men were fishing. One man told Joel that the splash we had seen was probably made by the big fish that gave caviar. We later found out that this almost five mile stretch of the river is where sturgeon spawn. As we paddled, one jumped rather close to Joel's kayak, another (full body out of the water) jumped near to me. It was beautiful-green-grey upper body, pink flowing into creamy white on the bottom. WOW!

A rather lovely stream gurgled over rocks into the river inviting us to stop once again. The approach up was a little steep for short legs to climb. Never- the-less I made it and hauled myself up to the stairway. This was part of the Suwannee River State Park. Back on the river it took two minutes to get to the boat ramp where a butterfly greeted us, landing long enough to have its photo taken.

Our little group is, apparently the talk of the river. The ranger immediately knew who we were and asked if we had seen the black bear at Holton Creek, or heard the coyotes. No to both, sadly. Registered, we were given site 30 next to the boat parking area. We hauled up, and I mean hauled, our gear and kayaks to the site in more than a few trips. (A park volunteer did come to help us, but we had most of it settled before her arrival.) Fortunately we were able to leave our kayaks in the parking area. We set up our camp for the last time and had lunch at which time an insect none of us could identify joined us.

It wasn't long before we took ourselves to the showers and then for brief hikes. Barbara S. and I walked on the path we had been on earlier. Absolutely stunning scenery. We also walked to the Columbus Cemetery, an old burial plot no longer used. The path was littered with wildflowers, yellows, white, pink, purple and I had no room left in my camera. Disappointing, but Barbara Q. was able to take some photographs the following day. Later, Susan, a park volunteer, offered to take Barbara Q. to a nearby restaurant to pick up fajitas for our supper meal as they would not deliver to the park. These had to have been the best fajitas ever! Thank you Barbara for this wonderful treat. Susan you have my nomination for volunteer of the year.

Thursday morning arrived and we had a little time to once again take a walk. Barbara S. and I went to see the Confederate Earthworks and to look out over the river and the RR bridge trains used to carry supplies to the Confederate soldiers. There is a 1920's photograph there looking at one section of the river. The caption asks the reader to see the differences today. We could not find any!

We returned to the outfitters, gathered our belongings, packed up our cars and were on the road for home by 11:00am. We did stop for the longed-after thick shake at Wendy's. (McDonald's machine was not working.) We were home and settled by 5:00pm.

This was a great trip. We paddled nearly 95 miles in fantastic weather, learned we are capable of doing things we had not imagined and look forward to next year's trip and others like it. Next year the plan is to leave from Suwannee River State Park and paddle the remaining miles to the Gulf. The great thing about Tropical Trekkers is that we are a diverse group, hikers who like to be active many ways in the out-of-doors. We maintain trails, backpack, and car camp, are environmentally conscious, and play on the earth trails and the river trails. Enjoy!